Granted, I may be writing this on a grey day in London and not fresh from gallivanting around the streets of Milan this fashion week, but scouring through a round up of the Italian city’s Autumn/Winter 2024 shows has given me enough inspiration to pretend I really was there. Let’s pretend for a moment that instead of drinking a builders tea in a chunky knit we’re sat a stone’s throw from Milan cathedral, soaking up the sun and debriefing over an espresso. It’s time to talk runway trends, and I’ve been meticuolously studying the shows (albeit from afar), and taking notes on all the recurring themes, colours, prints and fabrics on the runways to bring you the best of the best. The creme de la creme, the cherry on the gelato. So let’s dive in.
On the streets of Milan we saw the rise and rise of what I’m going to affectionately refer to as “Gucci red” (sorry Valentino pink), and if you thought the Milanese loved ballet flats as much as we do, think again (pointed heels are forever the street style set’s look du jour). But what were the highlights on the runways?
Well, brands were on the same page when it came to longer hemlines and clever layering (and if you’re looking for new workwear inspiration, simply Google “Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2024”). But all showed different interpretations of what I’m calling “dressy minimalism.” Translation: pared-back, anti-trend pieces that will live forever in your wardrobe, or in the case of Dolce and Gabbana, Tom Ford and Gucci, the kind of underwear you probably already own, but hadn’t thought of putting on display. Whatever your style, keep scrolling to see and shop the top seven runway trends of Milan Fashion Week’s autumn/winter 2024 season. There’s a lot you’re going to want to save for later.
1. Chic Cardigans
Style Notes: If this isn’t proof that a three piece knit is anything but old-fashioned, I don’t know what is. Bravo, Ferragamo, you’ve elevated brown knitwear to cool new heights.
Style Notes: Nothing says “cardigans are a key piece” quite like Gucci showing a look that makes the knit the star of the show. Who needs trousers when your jumper looks this good?
Style Notes: Long gone are the pop culture motifs and wacky colours, a new era of Moschino has arrived. Don’t mind me, I’m just mentally bookmarking this entire look for future reference.
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2. Chocolate Brown
Style Notes: There’s something inherently delicious about Alberta Feretti’s Jaffa cake colour palette, especially for autumn. Nothing lifts deep, cocoa browns quite like a bright pop of colour like orange.
Style Notes: If you’re going to try a new colour trend, it might as well be head-to-toe brown. It’s classy, expensive, and always looks polished—a case in point, Bottega’s sweeping maxi dress.
Style Notes: Consider this Ermanno Scervino a masterclass in how to layer fifty shades of brown.
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3. Underwear as Outerwear
Style Notes: If any brand is going to make a lingerie a ready-to-wear trend, it’s going to be Dolce and Gabbana. The duo that gave us corsets, suspenders and lace is now presenting lighter, sheerer, “soft as a whisper” layers that wouldn’t look out of place in bed.
Style Notes: Alberta Feretti just reminded me how versatile camisole tops and dresses really are. It’s about time I had on in my wardrobe for a myriad of evening outfits.
Style Notes: If slips and lace aren’t your thing, Tom Ford showed how clever cut-outs can create a nude illusion without actually having to bear all.
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Marjolaine
Womens Marjolaine Black Silk Lace-Trim Baccarat Shorts | Harrods Uk
I love the thought of wearing these with an oversized shirt and flat sandals in the summer.
Wolford
X Mugler Flock Shaping Paneled Stirrup Leggings
Cover up on top, and show a little skin on the bottom.
4. Ladylike Lengths
Style Notes: Let’s settle the dispute between mini and maxi skirts. The answer is taking the middle ground, the midi. The pencil skirt trend continues (as seen here at Bottega), and we’re here for any trend that doesn’t require us to bear our legs before the weather reaches at least 25 degrees.
Style Notes: I love midi length skirts and dresses with tall boots, and this double leather pairing from Fendi is on my outfit moodboard for the end of the year.
Style Notes: Dressing like the cast of Mad Men was not high on our 2024 Bingo list, but now we’ve seen it the Prada way, we’re here for it (especially with these cute flats).
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COS
COS
The Wool-Blend Midi Skirt
5. Sheer Delights
Style Notes: Blumarine are known for pushing the limits of ready-to-wear, so as much as this ethereal lace dress is absolutely stunning, it’s also not likely to be the first thing you throw on in the morning. It does however remind us just how pretty a simple, white slip dress can be, and sheer pieces like this can always be worn over a pair of floaty trousers to runway effect.
Style Notes: And here’s how to wear sheer pieces according to Fendi; so the first thing you buy after a sheer skirt should be a pair of opaque tights.
Style Notes: This level of “undressed-dressed” could only be pulled off so elegantly by Sportmax. Everything from the corsetry to the delicate fabric is a walking work of art.
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Maniere de Voir
Éternelle Mock Neck Sheer Midaxi Dress
Wear over a bandeau top, dress, or leggings.
6. Cape Crusaders
Style Notes: Easy, elegant and understated, it’s been a while since the cape had a moment in the sun, but the Milan runways have committed to the wrap around in a big, big way.
Style Notes: Let’s return to Ferragamo to see how capes can be styled for the office, for dinner and any occasion that requires this level of “put-together” polish.
Style Notes: If you want to see capes in action, check out the Jil Sander AW’24 collection. There’s quilted capes, pleated capes, velvet capes, and of course, this bubblegum pink moment.
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Purdey
Belted Leather-Trimmed Wool and Cashmere-Blend Cape and Scarf
This is the kind of piece you can wear for a lifetime.
Nanushka
Kamin Brand-Embroidered Wool and Silk-Blend Cape
The perfect piece to throw on over a casual fit.
7. Shaggy Coats
Style Notes: It might seem counterintuitive to discuss some a cold-weather trend in the run up to spring, but if this week’s weather is anything to go buy, we’ve got a little bit more time to dream about wearing Marni’s arctic-ready faux fur coat.
Style Notes: Unlike last year’s ultra-fluffy longline furs and 2022’s shearling teddy, 2024 is all about the shaggy, retro jacket that couldn’t look any less like real fur if it tried. Think bright colours, exaggerated shapes, and plenty of wild texture.
Style Notes: The bigger really is the better, and this loop knit-esque coat from Jil Sander is truly unforgettable.